Tuesday, September 30, 2008

The Pchum Ben Holiday



I thought the easiest way to explain the last few weeks would be with bits of an article I found online explaining the holiday. The whole face of the city is changed with this holiday well underway. Should you choose to read the parts of the article I have placed on this blog I think it makes quite clear the things we face in this country. Buddhism, which is such a deep part of life here, touches every part of a Cambodians life. Converting or changing beliefs that have been ingrained is much more difficult than one might think.

"The fifteenth day, of the tenth month, of the Khmer calendar marks the Pchum Ben festival. This is a time when the spirits of the dead ancestors walk the Earth. And the living can ease their suffering by offering them food to eat. At four in the morning, nearly all of the residents of Phnom Penh gather at the temple with offerings of rice, which they toss on the ground, feeding the dead ancestors.

According to Buddhist beliefs, the lives that we live, after death, are predicated by the actions that we took when we were living. Minor infractions would be punished with small punishments, such as being an unattractive ghost or having a small mouth. With a small mouth, it is hard to eat. Other, more severe, punishments could include being crippled or having no mouth at all.

At 8:00 AM, people return to the temple, with offerings for the monks. "They don't just give food," explains Mey Sameth, who was a monk for seven years. "They bring money and other things as well. As a monk we looked forward to this period all year long, because we could get new clothing and good food."

At 10:00 the people return with more food, which will be shared between monks and poor people. Os many of the Buddhist traditions seem to relate to feeding the poor. Disabled people also crowd around the temple begging alms. To give help to the less-fortunate, particularly during Pchum Ben, is to acquire merit. Many people explained that the offerings they made during the festival were to cancel out past sins.

Between 5:00-7:00 PM there will be more prayers for the dead. Most modern Khmers will say that the festival lasts fifteen days, ending on the fifteenth of the month. In actuality, the ancient, traditional festival lasted three months, ending on the fifteenth day, of the tenth month of the year.

The last four days of the festival were public holidays in Cambodia. Most Khmers visited the province where they were born, where they had family reunions. In observing friends and colleagues, it was amazing to see that even people who considered themselves only marginally religious still took the Pchum Ben festival seriously. They felt a real obligation to feed their ancestors, lest their suffering should continue. Even friends who claimed to have converted to Christianity, and who attended church regularly, took time out of their schedule to make the early morning pilgrimage to the temple, and feed the ancestors.

The Buddhist religion is such an integral part of the Khmer culture that neither political upheaval, economic crisis, the spread of foreign religions, or the intervention of modern society will shake the fundamentals of Khmer beliefs. It is refreshing to see that, although many aspects of the Khmer culture were lost during the Regime, the Khmers have managed to maintain their religious devotion and their family-centered way of life."

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Update...

Much has happened since last we blogged.  For starters, Andrea flew back home at the last minute to attend her brother’s wedding.  We are very thankful to her family members for making this possible, as it was important to both her and her brother.  While the wedding was beautiful, it was a turn-around trip for Andrea who is now doing her best to recover from jetlag. 

Upon her return to Phnom Penh team Cambodia arrived in full, and headed out to the beach town of Kep for a five day “get-to-know-you/goal planning” retreat.  We were able to meet the other members of our team, experience the wonderful Cambodian countryside, and relax a bit in our own private bungalow.  Even though we were without air-conditioning, and the bugs/reptiles/furry creatures were rather nasty, we had a splendid time.      

On Sunday afternoon, sadly, we piled each team member into taxis and headed back to Phnom Penh.  However, our countryside journey did not end there!  Cruising on the narrow highways leading to the city, our taxi driver recklessly weaved between tuk-tuks, cars, motos, and bikers while keeping a steady sixty-mile-an-hour pace.  Needless to say, we were rather unnerved.  To make matters worse, halfway through our journey the taxi driver vaporized a mangy dog standing in the middle of the road—he dragged it a good quarter of a mile—smashing both his radiator and our hearts.  We waited by the side of the road for about an hour-and-a-half, got into another taxi, and were on edge for the rest of our long journey home.

So, what’s up next for us you ask?  Well, this week we will be making a more permanent transition to NPIC (our university in the countryside).  By this I mean, that Monday we are going to spend our day shopping for furniture that we will be trucking out to our campus housing on Wednesday.  Our future goal is to stay at NPIC Monday through Friday, and Phnom Penh Friday afternoon through Sunday evening.  So, our trial run of this schedule will start Wednesday of this week.  

We will spend the majority of our time studying Khmer (always), and preparing for a weeklong class we will teach in October at another school (Life University—our NPIC gig does not start until November fifteenth).

I know all of this is confusing, but we’ll keep everyone posted as to our comings and goings, and hopefully in time all will be made clear.  If there is one thing we have learned so far, it is that one must be patient in Asian culture, as our typical western obsession with time has no place in Cambodia!

We love and miss you all,

Ben and Andrea


Saturday, September 13, 2008

Weekly update...

I woke up this morning and realized that we had not posted in quite sometime, and so I made “posting” my big goal for the day.

It is Sunday morning here, and I am currently sitting at coffee shop called Java, (we typically end up here at least once a day, or every other day, as they have good coffee and cheap internet) which is across from one of the few parks in Phnom Penh. Well, the term “park” is generous. Actually, it’s just a strip of grass in the middle of the city, but on a cool evening it has the tendency to feel “park-y.” It’s about one kilometer a round, and in the morning, if you’re in the mood for a jog, this is the place to go. Typically you’ll find walkers, runners, and a group of women doing some sort of yoga thing with a sword—I haven’t figured out exactly what they’re doing yet. Anyway, I am across from this park, sitting at Java, writing a post.

The last week has been hectic and relaxing; hectic because, Monday through Wednesday we were commuting back and forth from the city to our university about twenty kilometers outside the city. NPIC (The National Polytechnic Institute of Cambodia) is surrounded by rice patties and cows, no seriously, rice patties and cows as far as the eye can see. As our Korean representative said (it is a South Korean school), “It is the good country life!”

Anyway, on Monday NPIC sent a large moving truck to meet us in the city, so we spent the majority of our day arranging our new accommodations. Andrea and I were given two rooms on campus, one of which we converted into our kitchen/dinning room, and the other into our bedroom. We have a ways yet to go, but our new home is slowly coming together.

After our moving day, we trudged the twenty kilometers (I say trudged because without transportation it’s rather difficult getting there) back to NPIC to meet His Excellency, the Cambodian University President. However, plans were botched, and even though we ended up at NPIC we didn’t get to meet the His Excellency. So, we did some more arranging, a little cleaning, and headed back to the city for the night. Yet, late Tuesday night we received a phone call from the Korean University President (yes, I know, it’s extremely confusing) that we needed to head back out at the school at seven a.m. to try and squeeze in another meeting with His Excellency. We really weren’t happy, and let me tell you why: it had been raining all night and day. By this I mean we were in the middle of a Southeast Asian monsoon! So, we knew it would be a difficult journey. Yet, come the morn we put on our smiley faces, braced for the rain, and headed out. We grabbed a tuk-tuk to the NPIC shuttle pick up (about a fifteen minute ride) only to find out that the Korean President, though he demanded our presence, forget to tell the shuttle to pick us up. So there we were soaking wet, with no way to get to NPIC.

Now, in Phnom Penh you can’t just hail a cab, because cabs are only at the airport, so we had to hop back in the tuk-tuk, head to the airport, and grab a taxi out to NPIC. All in all, the trip was about two hours, and cost us about twenty bucks, but we made it. We met His Excellency, well “met” is a bit strong—we shook his hand. However, we had fulfilled our NPIC duty, and so we headed back into Phnom Penh. We will be staying in the city until the twenty-second of September, doing a little more training with our team, before we permanently move out to the country.

Needless to say, the first part of our week was a little hectic, but after that it settled down rather nicely. The last few days we have been studying our language, exploring the city, and training with our team. I (Ben) have a soccer match this afternoon, and am greatly looking forward to that. I feel like today is the day, the day I score my first goal…and don’t worry, I’ll keep you posted on that front.

I am also exuberant just finding out that Notre Dame beat Michigan! What a great day! I’m a little sad we couldn’t watch it, but for those of you who care, I got a feeling deep inside my bones that’s screaming out, “NATIONAL CHAMPIONS!” Well, okay, maybe not, but at least they beat Michigan (T.R., no offence).

Alright everyone, I am rambling now. I don’t even know that I said much, but I am glad to fill you in on a small piece of our lives. Take care, and know that we love and miss you.